Saturday 6 September 2014

There and back again (hopefully) - Molly's Hebridean Adventure Day 6

No photos today as the internet is too slow to upload them.

It was my final night of 3 at the Castlebay Hotel last night. The staff there were very friendly and helpful but it left me thinking the hotel takes advantage of its location, and probably doesn't get repeat visitors. The hotel is incredibly handy for the ferry, and given the Oban service doesn't get in until late evening for a few of its trips, the Hotel is the obvious place to stay.

However, it is incredibly expensive for what it is, which is a pleasant but rather tired around the edges, hotel. At £130 per night for B & B it is miles more expensive than anywhere else I am staying on the trip. Dumfries House Lodge was £70 per night B & B; the magnificent Kilberry Inn was £120 for dinner bed and breakfast. At £130 per night, in the back of beyond, I would not expect a room with: a minuscule bath; a failed light bulb (that I notified on Day 1 and was still out on day 3); a broken loo seat; unhooked curtains; a lifting carpet and no bottled water in the room. I wouldn't stay there again at £130 per night, I would do at say £70 pn.

I caught the ferry from Barra to Eriskay (and met up with Simon from last night in doing so). It can only be the subsidies that keep Calmac going on these routes as the 40 minute crossing had 3 cars and 2 cyclists on it. Whatever the outcome on 18/9, Calmac must be supported to keep these services running.

After the best weather of the trip yesterday, it lashed it down in the night and was very grey, a bit wet and very windy this morning but the day improved.

On Eriskay, I parked at the Am Politician pub and did a Monty Halls walk around the island. This included the beach which Bonnie Prince Charlie first landed on. The walk was ok but probably the least exciting I have done so far. Eriskay is a strange place. Loads of little houses dotted around the place but in 2.5 hours of walking on a Saturday, I did not see a single soul in their garden, at a window, in their drive or any kids playing. It was as if it were a ghost island - I have no idea where everyone was - are these just holiday homes?

Lunch in the pub was nice. Friendly barmaid and nice chat with a couple I had met walking on Vatersay. I then went to St Michael's Church which features in Peter May's book The Lewis Man. I found that a bit spooky as the book had been so brilliantly atmospheric and quite dark.

I then drove over the causeway, which is an impressive bit of engineering, to South Uist and made the short journey to the Polochar Inn. Met up with the two nice couples who are travelling together and were staying in Castlebay and were on the same ferry as me from Oban.

I went on a lovely walk along the beach from the hotel. I walked for about 1 1/4 hours each way but the beach is so vast I could have carried in for hours.  Scared myself by nipping over a sand split to the island of Orasaigh not knowing what the tide was doing. I got back fine but had my beloved children's voices ringing in my ear had I been cut off!

Back to the Polochar Inn for a nice supper and very excited about playing Askernish tomorrow.

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